Mei Kotake (小武 芽生, Kotake Mei; born May 18, 1997 Sapporo) is a Japanese professional rock climber who specializes in competition climbing. She participates in competition lead climbing, competition bouldering and competition speed climbing disciplines.[1][2][3][4][5]

Mei Kotake
Personal information
Born (1997-05-18) 18 May 1997 (age 29)
OccupationProfessional competition climber
Height154 cm (5 ft 1 in)
Climbing career
Type of climber
Highest grade
Medal record
Women's competition climbing
World Cup
Gold medal – first placeBriancon 2024Lead
Bronze medal – third placeChamonix 2024Lead
Asian Championships
Silver medal – second place2024 Tai'anLead
Bronze medal – third place2017 TehranLead
Bronze medal – third place2018 KurajošiLead
Asian Cup
Gold medal – first place2018 Hong KongBouldering
Updated on July 5, 2019

Early life and education

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Kotake was born on May 18, 1997, in Sapporo, Hokkaido. She started bouldering in the fifth grade of elementary school.

Kotake acquired a degree at a women's college for nutrition and food science.[6]

Climbing career

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Competition climbing

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In 2014 she won the All Japan Climbing Youth Championship in the category Lead.[7]

Rock climbing

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In 2022, Kotake sent Era Vella, an 8c+/9a -graded sport climbing route in Margalef, in Spain.[8]

Rankings

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[1][2]

Mei Kotake in the Climbing World Championships 2018 Lead Final
2018 2019 2025
Lead 4 11 10
Bouldering 25 39 -
Speed 59 57 -
2014 2016 2017 2018 2019 2021 2022 2024 2025
Lead - 37 27 5 15 52 22 5 17
Bouldering 46 22 11 21 - - - - -
Combined - 8 22 - - - - - -
2016 2017 2018 2024
Lead 5 3 3 2
Bouldering 6 7 8 -
Speed - 23 33 -
2018
Bouldering 1

Notable ascents

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8B+ (V14):

  • New Base Line - Magic Wood (SUI) - 2024[9]

9a (5.14d):

8c (5.14b):

References

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  1. 1 2 "Mei Kotake". IFSC. Archived from the original on Jul 5, 2019.
  2. 1 2 "Mei Kotake". digitalrock.de. Retrieved July 5, 2019.{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: deprecated archival service (link)
  3. "小武 芽生 Mei Kotake". JMA Climbing. Archived from the original on Jul 5, 2019.
  4. "SHARE CLINIC INTERVIEW [ Mei Kotake ]". bgshare.jp. Archived from the original on Feb 21, 2019.
  5. "小武芽生". Twitter. Retrieved July 5, 2019.{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: deprecated archival service (link)
  6. "[Tokyo 2020] Women players aiming to represent Japan in the new event "Sport climbing"". Yahoo! Japan - Women's Health. Retrieved August 10, 2019.{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: deprecated archival service (link)
  7. "Climbing Youth JAPAN Cup 2013 - results". JMSCA. Archived from the original on Aug 10, 2019.
  8. "Era Vella 8c+/9a by Mei Kotake". 8a.nu. Retrieved October 20, 2022.
  9. "World Cup Champ Sends Her First V14". Gripped Climbing Magazine. July 30, 2024.
  10. "Mei Kotake climbs Era Vella, 9a in Margalef".
  11. "Era Vella 8c+/9a by Mei Kotake". 8a.nu. March 31, 2022.
  12. "Era Vella 8c+/9a by Mei Kotake". 8a.nu. March 31, 2022.
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