Draft:Ethical Jewellery Movement

  • Comment: Much of the draft is unsourced, many of the sources are not independent, and many do not discuss an "ethical jewellery movement" or even "ethical jewellery" as a whole. There are also lingering signs of LLM usage, such as at least one apparently hallucinated source (Fashion Industry Network 2010). and vague and superficial descriptions. In my opinion, the best approach is to start over by first finding several sources that meet all the criteria in WP:GOLDENRULE, and then creating a completely rewritten draft that summarizes that those sources say about ethical jewellery. Helpful Raccoon (talk) 02:20, 12 June 2026 (UTC)

Overview

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The Ethical Jewellery Movement

Overview

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The ethical jewellery movement is a reform effort within the global jewellery industry that emerged in the late 1990s and developed through the 2000s and 2010s. It is centred on concerns about the environmental and human rights impacts of conventional precious metal and gemstone mining, and seeks to promote transparency, traceability, fair wages for miners, independent certification and consumer education in the jewellery supply chain.

The movement developed in response to several overlapping concerns: the trade in conflict diamonds financing armed conflict in Sierra Leone, Liberia and the Democratic Republic of Congo; the use of toxic mercury and cyanide in artisanal gold mining; child labour in gemstone cutting and polishing; and the economic marginalisation of small-scale and artisanal miners.

Among the developments associated with the movement are the creation of the Fairtrade and Fairmined Gold certification standards in 2011, described by their establishing organisations as the first independent third-party certifications for gold, and the formation of networks of jewellers, designers, consultants and educators working on ethical sourcing. The movement has been particularly active in the United Kingdom, though it drew on parallel developments in the United States and Colombia.

Background

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Conventional jewellery supply chains

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The jewellery industry is a major consumer of gold, diamonds, platinum and coloured gemstones. Supply chains for these materials have historically been characterised by limited transparency, which critics and NGOs have linked to abuses including the financing of armed conflict, environmental damage from industrial and artisanal mining, child labour in gemstone mining and cutting, and low prices paid to artisanal and small-scale miners. The production of a single gold ring has been estimated to generate more than 20 tonnes of mining waste.[1]

The Kimberley Process Certification Scheme, established in 2003 through agreement between governments, the diamond industry and NGOs, was an early attempt to address the conflict diamond problem. Critics, including figures later associated with the ethical jewellery movement, argued that it covered only a narrow definition of conflict diamonds and did not address broader human rights concerns, environmental damage or fair wages.[2]

Mercury in artisanal and small-scale gold mining

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A concern frequently cited in movement literature is the use of liquid mercury to extract gold in artisanal and small-scale gold mining (ASGM). Mercury is used to form a gold amalgam, which is then heated to isolate the gold. Mercury releases from ASGM have been estimated to exceed 1,000 tonnes per year globally, making it the largest single source of anthropogenic mercury pollution.[3] Between 10 and 19 million people use mercury to mine for gold in more than 70 countries.[4] Inhaled mercury vapour can cause neurological damage and developmental disorders; communities near ASGM sites face contamination of water, soil and food supplies.

The Minamata Convention on Mercury, adopted in 2013 and entering into force in 2017,[5] requires countries where ASGM mercury use is significant to develop National Action Plans. The Oro Verde programme in Colombia, which directly inspired the Fairtrade Gold standard, demonstrated that artisanal gold mining could be conducted without mercury or cyanide through traditional methods.

NGO campaigns and media

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Global Witness

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The UK-based NGO Global Witness published A Rough Trade in 1998,[6] an investigation into conflict diamonds in Angola. The report is credited with contributing to the international pressure that resulted in the Kimberley Process and established a model for NGO-led supply chain accountability in the jewellery industry.

No Dirty Gold campaign (2004)

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On Valentine's Day 2004, Earthworks and Oxfam America launched the No Dirty Gold campaign,[7] accompanied by the report Dirty Metals: Mining, Communities and the Environment. The campaign introduced the Golden Rules, a set of social, environmental and human rights standards that retailers were invited to endorse. Within two years more than 50,000 people had signed a petition and twelve major retailers, including Tiffany & Co., had endorsed the standards.

Blood Diamonds (2002) and the film Blood Diamond (2006)

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Investigative journalist Greg Campbell's book Blood Diamonds: Tracing the Deadly Path of the World's Most Precious Stones (2002, revised 2006) documented the role of diamond revenues in financing Sierra Leone's civil war (1991–2002), in which the Revolutionary United Front financed its campaign through the trade in alluvial diamonds. The 2006 film Blood Diamond, directed by Edward Zwick and starring Leonardo DiCaprio, brought the subject to a wider audience.

Human Rights Watch

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Human Rights Watch published reports on human rights in the jewellery supply chain, including a 2018 report on industry management of risks in gold and diamond supply chains. These reports contributed to scrutiny of the industry by policymakers and civil society organisations.

The Fairtrade precedent

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Advocates of ethical jewellery drew on the experience of the Fairtrade movement in food and agricultural commodities. The Fairtrade Foundation, established in the United Kingdom in 1992,[8] had demonstrated that consumer-facing certification could create demand for ethically produced goods. Advocates of ethical jewellery sought to apply similar principles of traceability, fair pricing and independent verification to mining communities.

Origins of the movement

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Oro Verde, Colombia (2001)

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The Alliance for Responsible Mining traces the origins of certified ethical gold to the Choco bioregion of Colombia, where Colombian social entrepreneur Catalina Cock Duque co-founded the Corporacion Oro Verde (Green Gold) in 2001[9][10] with Afro-Colombian community organisations in the municipalities of Condoto and Tado. Cock Duque had earlier co-founded the Amigos del Choco Foundation in 1997. She was elected an Ashoka Fellow in 2003 and nominated as a Young Global Leader by the World Economic Forum in 2007.

Oro Verde developed a social and environmental certification system for artisanal precious metals mining that certified gold and platinum mined using traditional methods that relied on neither mercury nor cyanide. Certified miners received a price premium above the international gold price, with funds directed to community development and conservation of the Choco region. The programme later served as a direct model for the Alliance for Responsible Mining and the Fairtrade and Fairmined Gold standards.[11]

Alliance for Responsible Mining (founded 2004)

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The Alliance for Responsible Mining (ARM) was established in Colombia in 2004,[12] building on the Oro Verde model, with the mission of developing social and environmental standards for artisanal and small-scale mining. Catalina Cock Duque was a co-founder, alongside artisanal miners from Colombia, Bolivia, Peru and Ecuador. Greg Valerio of CRED Jewellery served as a founding board member. From 2006, ARM collaborated with Fairtrade International to develop a joint certification standard, co-launching the Fairtrade and Fairmined Gold standard in February 2011.[11]

CRED Jewellery (founded 1996)

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CRED Jewellery, founded in 1996 by Greg Valerio on the south coast of England, is described in industry literature as an early institution of the British ethical jewellery movement.[13] Valerio engaged with conditions in mining communities during visits to alluvial diamond fields in Sierra Leone, gold mines in the Democratic Republic of Congo and gemstone mining operations in India. In 2003, in partnership with the Natural Resources Institute at the University of Greenwich, he published Towards an Ethical Jewellery Business, an early framework document for transparency and traceability in the jewellery supply chain. In 2004, CRED began selling wedding bands crafted from Oro Verde gold, described at the time as the first certified environmentally and socially responsible gold sold to UK consumers. Valerio was awarded an MBE in 2016 for services to Fairtrade[14] and published Making Trouble: Fighting for Fair Trade Jewellery in 2013.[13] CRED Jewellery has since closed.

Levin Sources and Estelle Levin-Nally

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Levin Sources, founded by Estelle Levin-Nally in 2010 as a B Corp-certified advisory and social venture, developed supply chain frameworks, ethical policies, due diligence tools and standards guidance for the jewellery industry. Levin-Nally had been active in the sector since 2007, co-founding the British Ethical Jewellers Association (2007–2009), co-chairing the Ethical Diamonds Group of the Madison Dialogue, and serving on the Standards Committee of the Responsible Jewellery Council. She participated in the Technical Advisory Group for Fairtrade Gold (2015–2017) and was a founding member of the Better Business Committee of the National Association of Jewellers. Levin Sources published the Better Business in the Jewellery Sector series and launched a Responsible Sourcing for Small Jewellers service.

Certification standards

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Fairtrade and Fairmined Gold Standard (2011)

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The Fairtrade and Fairmined Gold standard was launched in February 2011[12] as the product of a collaboration between Fairtrade International (FLO) and the Alliance for Responsible Mining (ARM) that had begun in 2006.[12] The standard was jointly governed and co-labelled, with products bearing both the FAIRTRADE Mark and the FAIRMINED Mark. The standard had been piloted with nine mining producer organisations across Bolivia, Colombia, Ecuador and Peru.

Certified mines receive a guaranteed Fairtrade Minimum Price set at 95% of the London Bullion Market Association price, plus a Fairtrade Premium of USD 2,000 per kilogram of gold sold, invested by miners in community development projects. Jewellers using certified gold must obtain a licence and submit to annual audits by FLOCERT, an independent third-party auditor. Certified gold is kept physically separate throughout the supply chain, with documentation of all transactions.

At the launch in February 2011, 20 companies were granted licences. The confirmed first licensees included:

  • Anna Loucah Fine Jewellery
  • April Doubleday
  • Arabel Lebrusan (later Lebrusan Studio)
  • Caratess
  • Cox & Power
  • CRED Jewellery
  • EC One
  • Element Jewellery
  • Fifi Bijoux
  • Foundation Jewellery
  • Garrard
  • Harriet Kelsall Bespoke Jewellery
  • Hattie Rickards
  • Ingle & Rhode
  • John Titcombe
  • Jon Dibben
  • Linnie McLarty
  • Oria Jewellery (Tania Kowalski and Synnove Saelthun)
  • Pippa Small
  • Stephen Webster
  • Ute Decker
  • Weston Beamor

Within two years the number of UK licensees had grown to approximately 50, with five designated master licensees (CRED, Cooksons, Hockley Mint, Vipa Designs and Weston Beamor). By the standard's tenth anniversary in 2021, over 350 licensed jewellers worldwide were working with certified Fairtrade Gold.

Fairmined Gold: independent development from 2013

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In 2013, the collaboration between ARM and Fairtrade International ended[15] and the two organisations began operating their standards independently. ARM launched the Fairmined Standard v2.0 in April 2014[15] as a fully independent certification. The two standards now differ in governance and premium structure. Fairtrade sets a fixed premium of USD 2,000 per kilogram, audited by FLOCERT. Fairmined operates two tiers: a standard certification and a Fairmined Ecological Gold tier requiring chemical-free extraction, with a sliding premium of approximately USD 4–6 per gram, audited by Ecocert.

Responsible Jewellery Council

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The Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC) was founded in 2005 by 14 organisations[16][17] spanning the jewellery and watch supply chain, including Cartier, the Diamond Trading Company (part of De Beers Group), Newmont Mining, Rio Tinto, Signet Group and Tiffany & Co. Its mission is to advance responsible business practices across the global industry through voluntary certification. The RJC operates three standards: the Code of Practices (COP), covering business ethics and responsible supply chains; the Chain of Custody (COC) standard for responsible precious metals processing and trading; and a Laboratory Grown Material Standard. Members are independently audited every three years. By 2025 the RJC had over 2,000 member companies.[18]

Some figures associated with the ethical jewellery movement have argued that the RJC's industry-led model does not provide sufficient independence, given that its standards were developed in part by large mining companies and luxury conglomerates. The RJC disputes this characterisation, stating that its multi-stakeholder governance and independent third-party auditing provide meaningful accountability.[16] Harriet Kelsall Bespoke Jewellery became the first company to simultaneously hold Fairtrade Gold licensing and RJC certification.

Key participants

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Leblas Jewellery (2008–2010, London)

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Leblas Jewellery was an ethical fine jewellery boutique on London's Sloane Street.[19][20] Co-founded in 2008 by Arabel Lebrusan and Clare Winfield, it used 18-carat recycled gold and traceable Canadian diamonds. Leblas operated during the period immediately preceding the Fairtrade Gold launch.

Arabel Lebrusan / Lebrusan Studio (founded 2011)

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Arabel Lebrusan is a Spanish-born, London-based jewellery designer and gemmologist. After co-founding Leblas (2008–2010), she launched her own brand in 2011 as one of the first Fairtrade Gold licensees.[21] Her eponymous brand was rebranded as Lebrusan Studio in 2018. She delivered a TEDx talk at TEDxBedford in 2015[22] on ethical jewellery and is a founding member of the Fair Luxury collective. She completed an MA in Sculpture at the Royal College of Art in 2023 and received the NAJ Jewellery Designer of the Year award in 2017 and 2022.[21]

EC One (founded 1997, London)

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EC One was founded in 1997 by Jos Skeates on Exmouth Market in Clerkenwell. The business makes all its pieces from recycled metals and traceable stones in an on-site workshop. It was the first British jewellery workshop to achieve B Corp certification.[23] Skeates has served as a trustee of the Goldsmiths' Centre.

Harriet Kelsall Bespoke Jewellery (founded 1998)

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Harriet Kelsall Bespoke Jewellery was founded in Hertfordshire in 1998. The company was involved in developing Fairtrade Gold certification processes in 2011, consulting with the Fairtrade Foundation on processes suitable for small jewellers. It became the first company to simultaneously hold Fairtrade Gold licensing and RJC certification.[24] Harriet Kelsall was the first female chair of the National Association of Jewellers.[24][25] In 2018 she facilitated a conference in Tokyo for Japan's Ministry of the Environment on the Minamata Convention and mercury use in the gold supply chain. In 2024 the company transitioned to an Employee Ownership Trust.[26]

Ute Decker (London)

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Ute Decker is a German-born, London-based artist-jeweller. She was among the first Fairtrade Gold licensees. Her work in Fairtrade gold and recycled silver is held in the collections of the V&A,[27][28] the Dallas Museum of Art and the Swiss National Museum. Her piece The Curling Crest of a Wave (2015) was described as the V&A's first Fairtrade gold acquisition.[28] Decker developed a free online resource for responsible jewellery practices, now at ethicalmaking.org, in partnership with the Scottish Goldsmiths Trust and the Goldsmiths' Centre.

Amanda Li Hope (London)

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Amanda Li Hope was among the world's first Fairtrade Gold licensees in 2011 and a founding Fair Luxury participant. She alloys her own gold in-house in her London workshop, a technically distinctive practice adopted from the moment of her licensing, enabling precise custom gold colours not readily available from certified suppliers.

Anna Loucah (London)

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Anna Loucah was among the first Fairtrade Gold licensees and is a founding member of Fair Luxury.[29] She operates studios in London and Margate. In 2011 she created jewellery for Livia Firth to wear at the Golden Globes, Academy Awards and Cannes film festival; a subsequent Oxfam auction raised over £80,000.[29][30] She co-wrote the Ethical Jewellery Movement Manifesto with Arabel Lebrusan.

Ingle & Rhode (2007–2024, London)

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Ingle & Rhode was founded in 2007 by Tim Ingle and David Rhode.[31][32] The business offered certified Fairtrade gold and was among the first jewellers in the sector to achieve B Corp certification. It ceased trading in early 2024, citing the pandemic, inflation and economic pressures.[33] The closure was reported in trade press as a significant development for the ethical jewellery retail sector.[31]

Cox & Power (founded 1987, London)

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Cox & Power was founded in 1987 by Vicci Cox and Tony Power, with Rachel Sweeney joining as a third partner in 1994. On the company's 25th anniversary it became a Fairtrade and Fairmined Gold licensee, producing what it described as the first Fairtrade and Fairmined platinum ring. Rachel Sweeney co-founded Fair Luxury.

Oria Jewellery (founded 2007, London)

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Oria Ethical Jewellery was founded in 2007 by Tania Kowalski and Synnove Saelthun. Kowalski's work in a fairly traded jewellery workshop in Nepal informed her commitment to Fairtrade sourcing. Oria was among the founding Fairtrade Gold licensees.

Fifi Bijoux and Vivien Johnston (founded 2006)

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Fifi Bijoux was founded in 2006 by Vivien Johnston. Johnston established the British Ethical Jewellers Association,[34] served as inaugural Chair of the Jewellery Ethics Committee UK & Ireland, and was named one of the Future 50 Young Social Entrepreneurs in 2013.[35] She was an early adopter of Fairtrade Fairmined Ecological Gold.

Nineteen48 / Stuart Pool (founded c. 2010, London)

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Nineteen48, named after Sri Lanka's year of independence, was founded by Stuart Pool and Gary Seneviratne[36] to supply responsibly mined and traceable coloured gemstones, primarily from Sri Lanka and Tanzania. Pool co-founded Fair Luxury and partnered in the Moyo Gems project, which supports women artisanal miners in Tanzania.[37][38]

Kathy Chappell and traceable coloured gemstones

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Kathy Chappell became the UK and EU representative for Columbia Gem House, a vertically integrated ethical gemstone company founded in 1977 in the United States. She subsequently became a Fair Luxury team member and Ethical Advisor to the London Diamond Bourse.

Hoover & Strong: Harmony Recycled Precious Metals (USA, est. 1912)

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Hoover & Strong, a precious metal refiner founded in 1912 in the United States, launched its Harmony Recycled Precious Metals brand in 2008, covering gold, platinum, palladium and silver certified as 100% recycled by SCS Global Systems. In 2013 Hoover & Strong partnered with Ethical Metalsmiths to import Fairmined gold into the United States.

Victoria Waugh

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Victoria Waugh served as Global Business Development Manager for Fairtrade Gold at Fairtrade International, leading commercial strategy for the 2011 launch. She later co-founded V&V responsible fashion and jewellery consultancy and served as the Women's Jewellery Network's first Ethics and Sustainability Ambassador.

Collective organising: FLUX and Fair Luxury

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The first FLUX conference, held in April 2016 at the Goldsmiths' Centre in London, brought together practitioners involved in responsible jewellery, including Greg Valerio, Stuart Pool, Anna Loucah, Amanda Li Hope, Kathy Chappell, Rachel Sweeney, Ute Decker, Arabel Lebrusan and others. Subsequent conferences from 2017 brought together an expanding community, including ARM representatives from Colombia, Levin Sources, the Incorporation of Goldsmiths in Edinburgh and Harriet Kelsall.

From 2017, FLUX was renamed Fair Luxury. The 2018 conference was hosted at the Royal College of Arts. Fair Luxury developed the Fair Luxury Pledge, a framework for businesses to set sustainability goals within a community of practice. The collective operates as a volunteer-run network.

The movement in the United States

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Ethical Metalsmiths (founded 2004; now Community for Ethical Jewelry)

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Ethical Metalsmiths was founded in 2004 in the United States by educators Christina T. Miller and Susan Kingsley. Operating as a volunteer-run, membership-based non-profit, the organisation focused on educating jewellers, metalsmiths, designers and consumers about the impacts of conventional mining and available alternatives. In 2013, working with 23 member jewellers and Hoover & Strong, it coordinated the first import of Fairmined gold into the United States, from Peru. On 1 January 2025, Ethical Metalsmiths renamed itself Community for Ethical Jewelry.

Chicago Responsible Jewelry Conference

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The Chicago Responsible Jewelry Conference (CRJC) is an annual conference in the United States dedicated to responsible and transparent supply chains in the jewellery industry. Founded in collaboration with Ethical Metalsmiths and initially hosted at Columbia College Chicago, the conference convenes jewellers, educators, miners, policymakers, NGOs and students. It has featured participation from the US State Department, Fairmined, PACT, IMPACT and academic institutions including the University of Delaware and the Gemological Institute of America, and incorporates public screenings of documentary films addressing responsible sourcing.

Further developments

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The CRAFT Code and artisanal mining inclusion

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A challenge identified by the movement is the difficulty faced by the majority of the world's approximately 40 million artisanal and small-scale miners in meeting full Fairmined or Fairtrade certification requirements, which require significant financial investment, organisational capacity and training.

To address this, ARM and RESOLVE, with support from the European Partnership for Responsible Minerals, developed the Code of Risk-mitigation for ASM engaging in Formal Trade, known as the CRAFT Code.[39] First published in 2018 as CRAFT v1.0, updated to CRAFT 2.0 in 2020 and CRAFT 2.1 in October 2024,[40] it is an open-source, progressive performance standard designed as a market-entry tool for artisanal miners. CRAFT 2.1 was recognised by the Responsible Minerals Initiative as a framework standard for upstream responsible sourcing.

The Ethical Jewellery Movement Manifesto

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The Ethical Jewellery Movement Manifesto was published by Lebrusan Studio and co-written by Arabel Lebrusan and Anna Loucah. The manifesto sets out a set of principles for the jewellery industry relating to the sourcing of materials, distribution of economic benefits, supply chain transparency and the acknowledgement of colonial legacies in the jewellery trade. It is available at ethicaljewellerymanifesto.com.

PeaceGold

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PeaceGold is a responsible sourcing initiative founded in 2013 by Greg Valerio, in partnership with the UK-based charity Peace Direct and the Centre Résolution Conflits (CRC), a DRC-based peacebuilding organisation, working in Ituri Province in eastern Democratic Republic of Congo. The initiative works with artisanal gold mining cooperatives in Ituri, applying the CRAFT Code as a baseline framework, requiring mercury-free gold processing, and investing a 1% social fund in community development. CRC has supported the reintegration of former combatants into communities. Levin Sources and Global Communities have partnered in developing PeaceGold's transactional framework.

Timeline

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YearEvent
1992The Fairtrade Foundation established in the United Kingdom.[8]
1996CRED Jewellery founded by Greg Valerio.
1997EC One founded in London. Catalina Cock Duque co-founds Amigos del Choco Foundation in Colombia.
1998Global Witness publishes A Rough Trade.[6] Harriet Kelsall Bespoke Jewellery founded.
2001Corporacion Oro Verde co-founded in Colombia by Catalina Cock Duque and Afro-Colombian community organisations.[9]
2002Greg Campbell publishes Blood Diamonds.
2003Kimberley Process Certification Scheme launched.[2] Greg Valerio publishes Towards an Ethical Jewellery Business. Catalina Cock Duque elected Ashoka Fellow.
2004Earthworks and Oxfam launch the No Dirty Gold campaign.[7] ARM co-founded; Greg Valerio serves as founding board member. Ethical Metalsmiths founded in the USA.
2005Responsible Jewellery Council founded by 14 major industry organisations.[16]
2006Blood Diamond released. Vivien Johnston founds Fifi Bijoux. Arabel Lebrusan meets Catalina Cock Duque during research at Central Saint Martins.
2007Ingle & Rhode founded by Tim Ingle and David Rhode.[31] Oria Jewellery founded. Vivien Johnston establishes British Ethical Jewellers Association and Jewellery Ethics Committee. Estelle Levin-Nally co-founds British Ethical Jewellers Association.
2008Leblas Jewellery opens on Sloane Street, London.[19] Hoover & Strong launches Harmony Recycled Precious Metals brand.
2010Levin Sources founded by Estelle Levin-Nally.
2011 (February)Fairtrade Foundation and ARM launch Fairtrade and Fairmined Gold.[12] Twenty founding licensees include CRED, Arabel Lebrusan, Anna Loucah, Harriet Kelsall, EC One, Ingle & Rhode, Ute Decker, Oria, Cox & Power, Jon Dibben, Garrard, Stephen Webster, Hattie Rickards and others. Harriet Kelsall becomes first company to simultaneously hold Fairtrade Gold licensing and RJC certification. Anna Loucah creates ethical jewellery for Livia Firth's Green Carpet Challenge; Oxfam auction raises over £80,000.[29] NAJ and BJA form Jewellery Ethics Working Committee.
2013Minamata Convention on Mercury adopted.[5] ARM and Fairtrade International end their joint certification collaboration; the standards begin operating independently.[15] Ethical Metalsmiths coordinates first Fairmined gold import to the USA with Hoover & Strong. Greg Valerio publishes Making Trouble: Fighting for Fair Trade Jewellery.[13] PeaceGold established in the DRC by Greg Valerio with Peace Direct and the Centre Résolution Conflits.
2014ARM launches Fairmined Standard v2.0 as a fully independent certification.[15]
2015Arabel Lebrusan delivers TEDx talk on ethical jewellery at TEDxBedford.[22]
2016Greg Valerio awarded MBE.[14] First FLUX conference at the Goldsmiths' Centre, London. Minamata Convention enters into force.[5]
2017FLUX renamed Fair Luxury. Second conference at the Assay Office, Birmingham.
2018Fair Luxury conference at the Royal College of Arts, London. Chopard announces commitment to 100% ethical gold. CRAFT Code v1.0 published by ARM and RESOLVE.[39]
2020CRAFT Code 2.0 published.
2024 (February)Ingle & Rhode ceases trading after 17 years.[33]
2024 (October)CRAFT Code 2.1 launched.[40]
2025 (January)Ethical Metalsmiths renames itself Community for Ethical Jewelry. RJC reaches 2,000 members.[18]

References

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Citations

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Sources

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Category:Jewellery Category:Fair trade Category:Ethical consumerism Category:Mining Category:Environmental movements